Mulches are a vital part of the many-faceted southern landscape. They help our plants as they hold moisture in the soil, help prevent weed growth, inhibit certain soil-borne foliar diseases, and insulate the roots of plants from temperature extremes during summer and winter. Plants look more attractive with mulch at their base. Mulch also provides a buffer zone between the turf and woody ornamental plants and helps prevent trunk injury from weed trimmers and lawn mowers.
As popular as they are in contemporary landscapes, mulches are not a new concept. For as long as trees have grown in forests, leaves and needles have fallen to the ground, matted together, and formed a natural protective layer over the soil. The English word mulch is probably derived from the German word molsch, meaning soft, beginning to decay. It no doubt referred to early gardeners' use of straw, leaves, and loose earth spread on the ground to protect the roots of newly planted trees and shrubs. The presence of this ground level buffer layer no doubt discouraged digging by animals above ground that were hungry for tender roots.
Many different natural and synthetic mulches are available today, but all perform at least three basic functions: They reduce soil water losses, suppress weeds and protect against temperature extremes. In one study comparing various mulch materials with bare soil, soil moisture percentages in mulched plots were approximately twice as high, summer soil temperatures were reduced by 8 to 13 degrees, and the average amount of time required to remove weeds was reduced by two-thirds. The benefits for the healthy growth of plants is evident in these results.
The best mulch is organic, fine-textured and non-matting. Examples include pine needles (commonly called pine straw in the south), cypress shavings, hardwood chips, and pine bark mini-nuggets. Pecan hulls, a by-product of the pecan industry, are used successfully as mulch in south Georgia and North Florida. Fall leaves are an excellent and economical mulch and add valuable humus back to the soil as they decompose. It should be noted that grass clippings are not a good source of mulch because they tend to mat down and inhibit the flow of water and nutrients into the soil. They also may introduce plant pest seeds and weeds into ornamental plantings. Inorganic mulches such as rock, gravel and marble are good soil insulators. However these absorb and re-radiate heat in the landscape, increasing water loss from plants. Limit their use to shady areas of the landscape for best results. Apply mulches measuring 3 to 5 inches deep in an area extending beyond the canopy of the plant if possible. You need to spread the mulch in this manner as a small ring of mulch around the trunk provides little benefit to the plant. Organic mulches such as pine straw or pine bark break down and decompose over time and should be replenished at least once a year.
Geo-textile (landscape fabric) can be used instead of plastic film under mulch. The landscape fabric allows water, nutrients and oxygen to reach the roots of plants and prevents the growth of some weeds. For best results, install landscape fabrics on weed-free ground and avoid getting soil on top of the fabric. Avoid placing plastic film under mulches as it prevents water, nutrients and oxygen from reaching the roots of the plant. The plastic can kill your plants in the same way it inhibits the growth of unwanted weeds.
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