Thursday, April 23, 2015

Summer Tree And Plant Care In Florida

Yes, the hot days of summer are right around the corner and here in Florida that just means a lot more of what we have throughout the rest of the year, weather-wise. Plenty of muggy, plenty of sunny and plenty of buggy. We, and our plants, experience more concentrated heat, more intense humidity, and greater numbers of six-legged visitors during our long hot season of the sun. 

Every time of year brings with it charms and challenges unique to the seasons we live through. With summer everything seems sped up and magnified with extreme heat and intense storms. Yet at times the air grows heavy and the wind stills and we bask in the heat like a lizard basking peacefully on a rock, lazily watching the day go by. 

Our trees and shrubs, our bushes and flowers, and our fruits and veggies experience the ups and downs of the summer months more intensely than we do, being as they are outside and living through it up close and personal, as it were. We need to be especially aware of what our plants need and what we can do for them in the long hot months to come.

While water can come quickly in the rush of our usual afternoon thunderstorms there may come in some areas a lack of moisture from not-uncommon dry spells that linger from time to time. If you experience dry summers, or a dry weather pattern, you may wish to water your garden to keep it looking its best. Most common garden plants prefer an average of 1 inch of water a week. It is best to apply that inch all at once to encourage plant roots to sink down more deeply in the soil. This enables more hardy growth. When watering, apply water directly to the ground rather than getting a plant's foliage wet; water sitting on the leaves can lead to disease. Soaker hoses can be very effective for this purpose.

Time for cutbacks? Maybe so if we are speaking of faded blooms from the spring season. Remove spent blooms from many of your annuals and perennials. This can lead to you seeing more flowers. This is called deadheading and the process prevents plants from producing seeds so they put more energy into beautiful blooms. Some plants can self-seed to the point of being weedy in the garden. This is yet another case of less being more.
Summer is always a time of rapid plant growth. And that growth does not discriminate so we sometimes have to, at least when it comes to weeds. Many pesky weeds love summer heat and quickly take the jump from tiny to gigantic. It is very important to pull them from your garden as weeds steal moisture and nutrients from your plants. Many types of weeds also encourage insect pests and diseases to pop up in your garden. Weeds can take over your yard and garden very rapidly in the summer.

Mulching is a good idea all year-round. One of the best things you can do for your flower beds is to put down a 2-3" layer of a good quality mulch. This will go a long way to reducing the number of weeds that pop up in your gardens. However, mulching does a lot more than just keep weeds down. It also reduces water loss from the soil, helps maintain a constant soil temperature, and gives your gardens a neat and finished look. 

Absence makes the heart grow fonder...and the plant grow stronger. At least that is the case when it comes to summer yard and garden pests. In your garden and yard be sure to watch for signs of disease and insect damage. Catching problems early can make a big difference in being able to control pests and diseases before they have a chance to cause major destruction. Soonest begun, soonest done. Because insects and disease seem to be drawn to weak or stressed plants, the best way to reduce your chances of infestation is to promote healthy, happy plants. Like weeding, keeping an eye on pests and diseases in your yard should be done all year. But midsummer seems to be particularly popular for these gardening obstacles.

Small to medium sized plants need special care in the summer and so do your big plants. Your trees are usually the most prominent feature in your yard and can make or break the good appearance of your property. Remember to inspect your landscape. Check your trees for damage or warning signs; specifically insect infestations and diseases. Also it may be time to prune dead, diseased or unsafe branches. Pruning often results in some of the most successful tree care programs. Finally, with hurricane season and our usual strong summer storms on the way it could be the best time to cable, brace or remove weak tree limbs.

Friday, March 20, 2015

Landscape Mulching In Florida

Mulches are a vital part of the many-faceted southern landscape. They help our plants as they hold moisture in the soil, help prevent weed growth, inhibit certain soil-borne foliar diseases, and insulate the roots of plants from temperature extremes during summer and winter. Plants look more attractive with mulch at their base. Mulch also provides a buffer zone between the turf and woody ornamental plants and helps prevent trunk injury from weed trimmers and lawn mowers.

As popular as they are in contemporary landscapes, mulches are not a new concept. For as long as trees have grown in forests, leaves and needles have fallen to the ground, matted together, and formed a natural protective layer over the soil. The English word mulch is probably derived from the German word molsch, meaning soft, beginning to decay. It no doubt referred to early gardeners' use of straw, leaves, and loose earth spread on the ground to protect the roots of newly planted trees and shrubs. The presence of this ground level buffer layer no doubt discouraged digging by animals above ground that were hungry for tender roots.

Many different natural and synthetic mulches are available today, but all perform at least three basic functions: They reduce soil water losses, suppress weeds and protect against temperature extremes. In one study comparing various mulch materials with bare soil, soil moisture percentages in mulched plots were approximately twice as high, summer soil temperatures were reduced by 8 to 13 degrees, and the average amount of time required to remove weeds was reduced by two-thirds. The benefits for the healthy growth of plants is evident in these results.

The best mulch is organic, fine-textured and non-matting. Examples include pine needles (commonly called pine straw in the south), cypress shavings, hardwood chips, and pine bark mini-nuggets. Pecan hulls, a by-product of the pecan industry, are used successfully as mulch in south Georgia and North Florida. Fall leaves are an excellent and economical mulch and add valuable humus back to the soil as they decompose. It should be noted that grass clippings are not a good source of mulch because they tend to mat down and inhibit the flow of water and nutrients into the soil. They also may introduce plant pest seeds and weeds into ornamental plantings. Inorganic mulches such as rock, gravel and marble are good soil insulators. However these absorb and re-radiate heat in the landscape, increasing water loss from plants. Limit their use to shady areas of the landscape for best results. Apply mulches measuring 3 to 5 inches deep in an area extending beyond the canopy of the plant if possible. You need to spread the mulch in this manner as a small ring of mulch around the trunk provides little benefit to the plant. Organic mulches such as pine straw or pine bark break down and decompose over time and should be replenished at least once a year.

Geo-textile (landscape fabric) can be used instead of plastic film under mulch. The landscape fabric allows water, nutrients and oxygen to reach the roots of plants and prevents the growth of some weeds. For best results, install landscape fabrics on weed-free ground and avoid getting soil on top of the fabric. Avoid placing plastic film under mulches as it prevents water, nutrients and oxygen from reaching the roots of the plant. The plastic can kill your plants in the same way it inhibits the growth of unwanted weeds.
http://zimmermantreeservice.com/Tips/TimelyIdeas.aspx  

Monday, March 9, 2015

Canopy Reduction In South Florida

A beautiful tree canopy beautifies your entire property. Canopy trees are able to photosynthesize relatively rapidly due to abundant light. The canopy layer provides protection from strong winds and storms, while also intercepting sunlight and precipitation, leading to a relatively sparsely vegetated understory layer. This may make landscaping beneath tree canopies more of a challenge as plants must be chosen which thrive in lower sunlight conditions.

Improving your yard's tree canopy (i.e. tree cover) can have numerous benefits, from reducing summer peak temperatures to improving the overall appearance of your landscape. Shade trees are a welcome addition to most South Florida yards. They not only make beautiful landscape specimens, they also help cut down on high summer power bills. Planting a tree on the South or West side of your property helps keep the hottest sun off the house.
 Some of South Florida's most beautiful shade trees are deciduous. Deciduous trees lose their leaves in winter. If you're planting a shade tree for energy-saving, a deciduous tree is a good choice. The leaves in warm weather protect your home from blazing sun. In winter, when the tree is bare, sunlight can get through the branches to help heat your home. It is a win-win tree canopy choice.

Trees that keep their leaves year round can provide a sheltering canopy to protect plants below from frost. They also act as a natural covering to keep winter temperatures a few degrees warmer in the area below them. Houses without these trees can suffer significant frost damage during freeze warnings while the houses right next to them collect little to no frost on their greenery.
 Once a tree has grown to a large size, reduction pruning may require removing branches with large diameters. This can wound trees, making the trees at risk for cracks and decay. Undesired new development can also sprout out of the cut branches. You should try to reduce tree size while you can maintain the form of the tree and minimize regrowth, before the tree becomes too large for the area in which the tree is growing.

Call For an Estimate
Palm Beach County: 561-968-1045
Martin County: 772-546-0811
Boca Raton and Delray Beach: 561-338-3533
Broward County: 954-968-1045

Tuesday, February 10, 2015

Rugose Spiraling Whitefly South Florida Plant Attack

Who does not love the balmy, scented breezes and subtropical climate we enjoy almost year-round in Florida? We have an entire industry- tourism - based on the optimal living conditions we experience thanks to the wonderful atmosphere in our home state. But some visitors are more welcome than others, and some are not welcome at all. It is with no pleasure that we introduce the Rugose Spiraling Whitefly. 


The Rugose Spiraling Whitefly is a Central American import first collected in Miami-Dade County in March, 2009. This insect has steadily been making a northward trek and its' flight plan just make take right through your garden and landscaping. This pest is by no means a picky eater and will be quite content to munch through a lot of your greenery. Both larval and adult stages feed on and damage plant life. 

After hatching from eggs the Rugose Spiraling Whitefly larvae crawl around and begin to feed with their needle-like mouth parts on plant leaves. During this stage the so called "crawlers" are very small and may be difficult to observe. These crawlers will molt and go through several immature stages that are oval and at first flat, then they become more convex in shape. Some of these stages of the young whitefly will secrete long white filaments of wax. Note that these stages do not resemble a typical insect. In the warmer climes of south Florida these insects will likely
survive year round. 

The adult stage Rugose Spiraling Whitefly damages plants mostly not through intake but as a result of outflow. Research suggests the adult insect itself does not cause severe damage (on landscape plants) such as plant death or branch dieback. However the insects excrete massive amounts of sugary honeydew which provides an incubation ground for sooty mold. This mold can cause excessive damage to orchids as well as to cars and patios beneath infested plants. 

If your plants are falling victim to the Rugose Spiraling Whitefly the evidence will be clear. The undersides of their leaves will be covered with an abundance of the white, waxy material and the tops with excessive black sooty mold. In most cases you will note a white spiral or circular shaped clutch of eggs underneath the leaves of your plant. 

 The adult insects are larger than other whiteflies and are slow flying. This is not the same species of whitefly (ficus whitefly) that is currently causing damage through defoliation and branch dieback of ficus in south Florida. It will more than likely rapidly spread through more south Florida counties as well as making its' way to cooler northern areas.

Protect your trees and bushes from attack by Whitefly. Zimmerman Tree Services provides expert, licensed professional protection of your plants from infestation of the invasive, devastating Whitefly pests.There are different Whitefly treatment methods that may be applied to trees and hedges.
http://zimmermantreeservice.com/Services/WhiteflyTreatment.aspx

Tuesday, February 3, 2015

South Florida Against Ficus Whiteflies

Spring is coming and with it will come the arrival of all those enemies of herb, leaf and blossom, insect pests. Looks like another year of having to round up the usual suspects that love to munch through our gardens and landscapes. Our first subject is the ficus whitefly. 

This plant predator was first reported in Homestead, FL in 2007 and it has since made quite an infamous name for itself. It managed to make its' destructive way all the way across the continental United States in the span of in just five years, appearing on the west coast in California in 2012. Just as quickly the ficus whitefly established itself as a spreading pest that was rapidly affecting the health and aesthetics of valuable ficus trees and hedges. Whiteflies greedily feed on the underside of leaves with their piercing mouthparts. This causes wilting, yellowing, leaf drop, and eventually the death of the ficus plant.

The rapid life cycle of the ficus whitefly compounds its' ability to damage plants. Ficus whiteflies have at least three generations per year. Their eggs hatch and crawlers wander around the leaf until they find a feeding spot. When they attach the crawlers become immobile, feeding in the same spot until they reach adulthood. This cycle takes approximately 30 days to complete from start to finish. After becoming adults, they can fly to other ficus and lay their eggs. With up to three breeding cycles completed per year, populations can grow quickly and plant damage likewise accelerates.
These increasingly common pests can easily be identified. The Adult flies (about 1.4-1.6 mm) have white wings with faint grayish-brown markings. Their eyes are dark red. They are usually quite active and fly readily when disturbed. In the nymph stage ficus whiteflies have light green to tan, often semi-transparent, oval bodies which may blend with the surrounding leaf surface, making them a bit tougher to spot. The pupae also have red eyes. Immature stages of S. simplex can be found on both lower and upper surfaces of leaves, unlike many other whitefly species. Ficus whitefly eggs are yellow to light brown color, and a bit elongated. These are commonly deposited mostly along the middle vein on the underside of the leaves. All stages have their unique features and this makes for easier identification of these insects by novice and experienced gardeners alike.
Are your plants under ficus whitefly attack? Look for wilting yellow leaves that eventually fall off the plant, as well as plants that have lost their leaves out of season. Gently move your plant and watch for flying clouds of little white flies. Plants that are highly susceptible to the ficus whitefly include ficus hedges, banana leaf figs, fiddle leaf figs, strangler figs, weeping figs, Cuban laurels and banyan and false banyan trees. They have also been spotted on rhododendrons.

If you are experiencing ficus whitefly infestation treatment has to be applied at least annually. Your plants will have to be treated for the long term as this pest is not expected to go away now that populations here in Florida are well-established. Protect your trees and bushes from attack by Whitefly. 
Zimmerman Tree Services provides expert, licensed professional protection of your plants from infestation of the invasive, devastating Whitefly pests. 
There are different Whitefly treatment methods that may be applied to trees and hedges.

http://zimmermantreeservice.com/Services/WhiteflyTreatment.aspx

Thursday, January 8, 2015

Frost Proof In Florida


Cold weather means different things in different regions of the world, and in various parts of the United States. Though winter brings snow and ice and sleet to some areas, here in Florida it is rare for us to see those frigid examples of precipitation they experience up north. Still, winter brings with it unique cold-weather challenges we do not experience in warmer times of the year. 

Florida has moderate winter temperatures and freezes can occur from Florida City Florida to the panhandle and everywhere in between. It only takes one night of colder than anticipated weather to turn your nice greenery to withered brown husks. Do not miss out on the coming spring's beautiful blooms by literally nipping them in the bud by not giving your plants the attention they need in the winter.

Continue to water newly planted plants, trees and shrubs since it does not rain often in Florida during the winter. Most of the above ground plant is dormant however the roots can continue to grow if adequate moisture is present. This root growth can be very important for the later healthy development of your plant. 

Remember the importance of well-regulated fertilization. Plants, trees and shrubs properly fertilized in the fall will recover quicker from frost damage. Do not wait until late fall to fertilize or prune otherwise the cold weather can cause damage to new growth. Winter fertilization is just as necessary as that you perform in spring, summer and fall.

Mulching in Florida can be done in the native plant way by using pine straw. Pine straw will insulate the plant absorbing the sun’s radiation using it at night to keep your plants, flowers and trees warm, just like a blanket uses our body heat to keep us warm at night. Mulch with pine straw around the base of plants, shrubs and trees to protect shallow root systems.

Remember to keep it covered! Your plants, that is. When frost is on the way break out the coverings. Covers that go all the way to the ground work best because it can lessen the damage by reducing heat loss. Cover tender plants by using cloth, such as old sheets or quilts, burlap or special covering from local nurseries that is made for plants and always avoid using plastic. Plastic will cause condensation to form on the leaves from freezing temperatures which results in the leaves burning in the sunlight. Remember that you want to keep the moisture in and the frost out.